Ah, North Berwick. Just the name conjures images of ancient linksland, roaring gales, and golf played as it was always meant to be. I’ve had the distinct pleasure of walking these hallowed grounds, and let me tell you, there’s no place quite like it. It’s a journey back in time, a masterclass in natural golf, and the ultimate test of ingenuity.
For those unfamiliar, North Berwick isn’t some manicured resort course sculpted by modern earthmovers. Oh no. This is pure, unadulterated links golf on Scotland’s Firth of Forth, looking out to Bass Rock. It’s golf as it originated, with bumps, hollows, and strategic features that feel like they were put there by the hand of nature itself, subtly enhanced by a series of unknown greenkeepers and clever locals over centuries. This isn’t just a golf course; it’s a living museum, a testament to the enduring power of classic design.
My first pilgrimage to North Berwick felt like stepping into a painting. The vibrant green turf, often scoured by the harsh sea winds, stood in stark contrast to the deep blue of the Forth. The air itself is different – a bracing mix of salt, seaweed, and something indefinably historic. You can almost feel the generations of golfers who’ve walked these fairways before you, each one battling the elements and the course’s clever challenges.
And those challenges are precisely why North Berwick so enthralls architects and enthusiasts alike. It’s a course that demands creativity, particularly around the greens. There are no two-putt guarantees here. The humps, hollows, and slopes are designed to repel anything but a perfectly judged shot, and even then, luck can play its part.
The Bump-and-Run: Your Linksland Lifeline
Speaking of perfectly judged shots, a recent query from Andrew V. of Traverse City, Michigan, perfectly encapsulates the links challenge:
“Q: Dear Chef, I’m heading across the pond to play my first round of links golf this summer. Which short-game shot do I need to master before then?”
The answer, wholeheartedly, is the bump-and-run. And the “Chef” he’s referring to, McLachlin, couldn’t be more on the mark. North Berwick is the quintessential classroom for this shot. The firm, fast-running turf isn’t receptive to aerial bombardment. High, soft pitches often get knocked down by the wind or bounce unkindly. You need to get the ball on the ground and let it run, using the contours to your advantage.
McLachlin described it beautifully:
“This is your go-to when you can’t fly it to the hole. I’m talking ball back in your stance, shaft leaning forward, minimal wrist action. Think putting stroke with a wedge-narrow stance, quiet body and a low finish. You can use anything from a 9-iron to a 6-iron, depending on how much green you have to work with.”
He’s spot on. On some North Berwick approaches, you’ll feel like you’re putting with a 7-iron from 40 yards out. It feels unnatural at first, almost counter-intuitive to everything you’ve been taught on lush American parkland courses. But trust me, once you master it, it unlocks a whole new dimension of short game artistry. It’s an essential weapon in your arsenal against the fickle winds and rock-hard ground.
The sheer joy of watching a well-struck bump-and-run trundle over a mound, catch a slope, and funnel towards the flag is one of golf’s purest pleasures. And North Berwick offers countless opportunities to perfect it. In fact, McLachlin emphasizes its reliability:
“The best part? It’s reliable. The ball stays under the wind, handles any sketchy lies and rolls out like a dream. Practice it now and when you’re standing on the 4th at North Berwick with the wind howling, you’ll know exactly what to do.”
That 4th hole, Fidsra, is a fantastic example. A par-4 running alongside the beach, the wind can be a brutal factor. Here, trying to float a delicate wedge is often foolish. A low-flying iron that gets on the ground quickly is your best bet to conquer the elements and the demanding green complex. This course teaches you to think your way around, not just blast your way through.
A Design Philosophy Etched in Time
What makes North Berwick so special from an architectural standpoint? It’s the ultimate example of “minimalist” design long before that term became a buzzword. The course was essentially laid out over existing terrain, with very little earth moved. This resulted in the quirky, endlessly fascinating features that are its hallmark. The humps, hollows, and swales around the greens aren’t manufactured; they’re inherent to the landscape.
The routing is brilliant, often running out and back, with several holes playing directly towards or away from the coastline. This means the wind, an ever-present force, can come from every conceivable direction during a round, demanding constant adjustment and strategic thinking. The famous ‘Redan’ short hole (15th) and the ‘Biarritz’ green (2nd) are classic templates that have been replicated on courses worldwide by legendary architects from C.B. Macdonald to Seth Raynor, a testament to North Berwick’s enduring influence.
North Berwick isn’t about perfection; it’s about character. It’s about golf with a sense of humor, where a perfectly struck shot can bound into an unexpected hollow, and a seemingly poor shot can get a kind bounce. It’s raw, authentic, and utterly captivating. It reminds you that golf is a game of skill, yes, but also of adaptation and a healthy dose of good fortune.
If you’re planning your first links adventure, North Berwick is an absolute must-play. It’s located just a short drive from Edinburgh, making it an accessible cornerstone of any Scottish golf trip. Go with an open mind, a sense of adventure, and, most importantly, with a well-practiced bump-and-run in your repertoire. You won’t just play a round of golf; you’ll experience a piece of golf history, and you’ll come away a better, more thoughtful golfer for it.
