Ah, links golf. The very words conjure images of wind-whipped dunes, emerald fairways carved from the raw coastline, and the timeless chase of a little white ball across a landscape sculpted by nature and ingenious design. It’s a pilgrimage every true golf architecture enthusiast must make, a return to golf’s purest form. And if you’re like me, someone who’s had the privilege of walking over 200 courses worldwide, the allure of the links is a siren song that never truly fades.
My mind immediately drifts to the hallowed grounds of North Berwick, a storied links on Scotland’s Firth of Forth. It’s a place that transcends mere golf course; it’s a living museum of golf design, a playground where the game’s earliest lessons are still taught with a playful, yet firm, hand. There are few places where the whims of nature and the genius of the original architects (led largely by the club’s members and professionals over the centuries) are so beautifully intertwined.
The journey to North Berwick itself is part of the charm. A scenic drive east from Edinburgh, winding through charming coastal towns, builds the anticipation. And then, there it is: the iconic red-pan-tiled clubhouse, a beacon against the vast expanse of the sea. Standing on the first tee, with Bass Rock brooding in the distance and the crisp salt air invigorating your senses, you understand why golfers have been coming here since the 17th century.
What makes North Berwick special isn’t just its antiquity, but its unyielding devotion to strategic golf. It’s not about brute force; it’s about guile. The routing is brilliantly chaotic, turning and twisting to challenge you against every wind direction. The greens, often nestled into natural hollows or perched precariously, are full of subtle movements and demand a shrewd approach. But it’s the sheer number of iconic holes, the templates that have influenced architects worldwide, that truly elevate North Berwick to its legendary status.
And speaking of strategic golf, let’s talk about the short game. Especially at a place like North Berwick, where the ground game reigns supreme. I recently read a great piece from “The Short Game Chef” in The Daily Duffer that hit the nail on the head for links golf preparedness:
“Links golf? Let’s go! You’re about to step into golf’s purest form — tight lies, firm turf and unpredictable wind. The shot you must have ready before wheels up? The bump-and-run.”
He’s absolutely right. The American golf swing, with its lofty pitches and delicate flops, can often be a liability on these firm, fast surfaces. The bump-and-run isn’t just a shot; it’s a philosophy, an acknowledgment that the ground is your friend. This is fundamental to links play. At North Berwick, from the devilish approach to the 6th, ‘Pit,’ with its stone wall guarding the green, to the sprawling contours around the 13th, ‘Bass Rock,’ a low, running shot can often be your best ally.
The Short Game Chef goes on to describe the mechanics:
“This is your go-to when you can’t fly it to the hole. I’m talking ball back in your stance, shaft leaning forward, minimal wrist action. Think putting stroke with a wedge-narrow stance, quiet body and a low finish. You can use anything from a 9-iron to a 6-iron, depending on how much green you have to work with.”
This is precisely the kind of adaptability the course demands. The ground game is not an option here; it’s a necessity. The firm, undulating fairways and naturally contoured greens funnel balls in unexpected ways. A high, soft shot can easily be caught by the incessant winds, as I learned firsthand during a particularly blustery round in late autumn. But a nicely struck bump-and-run, scooting under the gusts, rolls out true on the sun-baked turf. It’s immensely satisfying.
One of the true architectural marvels is the 15th hole, “Redan.” This template, originated here, features a green that slopes away from the golfer, often defended by a deep bunker on the left. The ideal shot is a fade that lands short and runs onto the green. It’s a masterclass in risk-reward, demanding precision and a deep understanding of how the ground will interact with your ball. Architects from C.B. Macdonald to Seth Raynor have replicated the Redan, but none capture its original magic quite like North Berwick.
The club dates back to 1832, making it one of the oldest continually played golf courses in the world. It’s also open to visitors, making it an essential stop for any golf-mad traveler. Don’t expect manicured perfection in the American sense; instead, embrace the rugged beauty and the spirit of a game that has evolved gracefully with the landscape. You’ll be walking in the footsteps of legends, experiencing golf in its rawest, most exhilarating form.
The Short Game Chef’s final thought resonates deeply with the North Berwick experience:
“Practice it now and when you’re standing on the 4th at North Berwick with the wind howling, you’ll know exactly what to do.”
Indeed. The 4th, ‘Perfect,’ is another iconic hole, a tempting par-3 across a gully to a green often exposed to the full force of the Firth of Forth winds. Knowing how to trust the ground, to let the ball run, is more than just a technique; it’s an embrace of links golf itself. You might arrive with your American golf prejudices, but you’ll leave a convert, with a new appreciation for the bounce and roll, and a profound respect for the timeless lessons North Berwick so readily imparts.
